One of the best – if not the best – Sangioveses made in all of California seems to emerge from Pride every year. They only make a small amount of it (about 200 cases, and all 500 ml bottles). In the 2013 Sangiovese the final blend was 76% Sangiovese and 24% Merlot. Deep ruby/plum/purple, its notes of sweet cherry, licorice, pepper, spice and earth are followed by a full-bodied, gorgeously fruity, lush, velvety-textured wine with decent acidity and sweet tannin. This luscious, sexy style of Sangiovese makes a mockery of the frequently disappointing ones that California produced for so many years. Drink it over the next 5-7 years.

In most ways adhering to the same beamy build, showy oak and bias to obvious ripeness that are the hallmarks of Pride’s very ambitious Sangioveses, this one does so with a bit of extra emphasis on the latter. There are other examples by other producers that are as big and as ripe, but the key to success here is the very deep, dark cherry fruit that sits at center stage throughout. The wine comes with considerable tannic grip and, neither now nor later, has the look of one meant to accompany lighter foods, and, its enthusiastic endorsement comes with the one caveat that it not be opened too soon. A wait of three to five years seems about right.